My only caveat about the Rain & Sun covers is that they don’t fully cover the bottom of the amas or the main hull. If you have a colour that fades in UV (e.g. Yellow) then you can end up with a “tide mark” halfway down the hull. The other thing is that the cover has loads of straps which clip together to secure it which is robust but time consuming – a drawstring or shockcord around the edge of the “skirt” would make it much easier to secure.

I’m sure I’m missing something.  How does that work Paul?  Do you mean to put the mats on top of the trampoline?  In which case wouldn’t that interfere with the hiking straps?  Do you have a picture cos the now that I”ve added another hiking strap the AMA edge is really uncomfortable.

🙂

I omitted one vital instruction- put the padding in place under the tramps!

Remove the trumps from the ama edge by untying the lashing underneath, then use the cable ties to apply the padding, then replace the tramps and retie underneath.

The standard 8″ hatch in the deck is OK for putting small items and a small dry bag below deck but not much use if you need to store anything larger and want to avoid damaging the plastic thread of the hatch.

There are larger round hatches available but they still have the thread issue.

The only hatches which claim to be fully waterproof are made by Armstrong Nautical and are available in 6, 8″ and 10″ round or rectangular shapes.

Others have used yacht-style hinged rectangular hatches which give good access but may be a bit heavy.

Another alternative are Kayak hatches which are designed to be 100% waterproof if the kayak turns over.

This article has some useful information on the various types available and their maintenance.

There is another stronger track used by 29er, 49er and other skiffs which may be a good solution if you are having problems with the sail pulling out of the track – especially the SQ 9.3 sail which has more luff curve and therefore puts more strain on the top and bottom of the track.

It’s available by the metre from 29er dealers (such as NB Sailsports) and from some riggers (e.g. Sheerline Yacht Masts) and lines up well with the white track if you don’t want to replace the entire track.

Here’s another clever double trailer solution developed in Australia which uses levers pulled by the winch to lift the boat to the upper level. Although apparently the ramps make it tail-heavy and I’d solve that by using removable aluminium ramps like these from Supercheap Auto.

• This reply was modified 1 week, 6 days ago by Paul White.

As there’s no manual for the Drift Ghost X, I’ve created one based on the higher spec (but lower battery life) Ghost 4K.

Use it at your own risk – all comments welcome.

Drift Ghost X Manual V 1.0

• This reply was modified 1 week, 1 day ago by Paul White.

Replay XD Prime X (US$225.00 on Amazon)

• Captures 1080p60 and 720p at 120 fps
• Takes 16MP Sill Photos
• Wide 140° FOV Lens
• Camera Waterproof to 10′ (3m)
• 3.5 hrs Battery life
• Wi-Fi for Live View and Remote Operation
• 4K Interval Recording for Time-Lapse
• T2.8 Aperture Lens with Anti-Glare Coat
• LowBoy and Tilting Mounts Included
• Optional Microphone Adapter
•  Optional Waterproof case to 197′ (65m) (recommended for Weta use)
• Optional Re-Power Battery Packs (adds 3+ or 6+ hours)

If you use an action camera in a waterproof case, you may find condensation forming over the lens inside the case, as soon as it gets splashed with water, because of the temperature variation.

You can buy anti-fogging gel inserts which are available for some cameras (GoPro) but they have a limited lifespan and aren’t that cheap.

An easier solution is to cut a strip of paper towel and either fold it up so that it fits into gaps between the camera and the waterproof case (e.g. GoPro), or remove foam padding in the case (e.g. Drift) and replace it with paper towel.

Drift Stealth X or 4G Instructions
The Drift Ghost X waterproof case has a thin foam pad stuck to the inside of the case. Remove this pad (you may need to use turps to remove the glue residue, then metho to remove the turps residue). Cut a strip of paper towel approx L140 x W15mm and double it over to form a strip 70mm long. Place the strip alongside the base of the camera with the fold near the lens, but not so close that it will affect the case seal. Slide the camera while holding the strip into the waterproof case so the strip is where the pad used to be.

Video tutorial for GoPro 

How do you fit and store an outboard on a Weta?

Some would say don’t bother as it will always get in the way and in anything above 5 knots of breeze you can move fairly quickly using the sails alone – although sometimes it may help to use the screecher as a “code 0” to keep momentum although you can’t point as high.

However, there may be situations and regulations that require you to have an outboard but if possible, try one of the options using paddles and oars first.

Brackets
There are 3 options I have seen for brackets:
1. Using a bar (wood or metal) across the stern clamped from gunwale to gunwale with the outboard mounted on a block at the side.

2. Using a metal bracket mounted on the stern which has been reinforced from the inside using a plate inserted by adding an inspection port on the cockpit side.

3. Using a hinged bracket attached to a piece of wood inserted into a slot in the stern and then glassed in place  – also requiring an inspection port on the cockpit side.

All three methods will work although the a bar is easier to fit/remove, can be stowed out of the way when sailing and doesn’t require any holes in the cockpit side. It also means that the outboard is out of the way in most sailing positions if the outboard is not removed while sailing.

Outboards
Probably the most important aspect of using an outboard on a Weta is the weight of the engine and where it can be distributed to have least impact on your sailing experience. Having extra weight on the stern is slow in light winds but of course you can counter that with your body weight.

Then there’s the issue of stowing the engine when it’s not in use. The below deck storage compartment has benefits in that the weight of the outboard is then in the centre of the boat and near the water line. However the compartment below deck is not very deep so careful measurement of the engine and compartment is recommended before purchase, if you plan to stow it below.

The standard 6″ hatch is too small for any outboard but Kayak hatches offer various shapes and sizes which can be latched shut securely.  The hatch in front of the daggerboard must seal closed because the storage compartment below deck provides buoyancy in a capsize – the boat may not be righted if this is compromised.

If you are storing a petrol outboard below deck you may need to carry an additional fire extinguisher above deck, depending on your local marine regulations.

Lying the outboard in the cockpit is an option but it may get in the way when tacking and is liable to catch on ropes.

Engine options include:

1. Electric paddle

The electric paddle is different from a trolling motor in that it’s designed for propelling small boats rather than just moving quietly after fish. It has a brushless electric motor which outputs 30Wats of power, but unlike a trolling motor, it uses a “model aeroplane” type propeller which is much more efficient for continuous propulsion.

One Weta owner reports: “The EP can move the Weta on calm waters with little to no wind in the 2.8 to 3.0 knot range if you have the main and jib up. Bare pole only the speed drops a couple tenths. The apparent wind created by the propulsion of the EP helps generate the additional speed. Throttling back to the mid-range setting drops the speed by .3 kts so not much of penalty, considering the gain in range. I have yet to run the NIMH battery down to empty and would guess that the furthest I have run on a charge if 4 to 5 miles.”

The manufacturer claims the range is as follows

• Almost 2 hours at High speed
  (about 2.5-3.5 mph on many small boats)
• Up to 4 hours at Medium speed
• Up to 5 hours at Low speed

Weight:

• Motor weighs 7.6 lbs.
• NiMH Battery pack weighs 8.1 lb.
• Smart Charger weighs 1.28 lbs.

Size:

• Motor envelope sizes
  Short shaft: 7” dia. x 38.5” long
  Long shaft: 7” dia. x 43.5” long
  Mini shaft: 7” dia. X 33.5” long
• Waterproof battery comes in a floating bag 9” x 7” x 6”.
• Smart Charger fits into a 6” x 8” ditty bag.

Minimum battery range:

• At High Setting, the battery will last almost 2 hours.
• At Medium Setting, the battery will last about 4 hours.
• At Low Setting (midway between off and Medium setting) the battery will last 5 hours.
• Recharge time: about 3 hours.

Speed control:

• High Setting = 100% output
• Medium Setting = 50% output
• Midway below Medium and Off (not marked) = 33% output

2. Electric outboard motor
There’s a useful buyers guide to Electric outboard motors over 5Kw here and under 5Kw here 

Torqeedo Ultralight 403

Sold as a trolling motor for Kayaks, the advantage for the Weta is that the drive is separate from the battery and connected by cables. This means you can separate the weight of the battery from the engine which is much better for weight distribution and stowing. Weta owner, Glenn Madere installed the mount following the manufacturer’s diagram for an off-center installation (see p. 47 of the Manual) as if his main hull were a kayak, adjusting the vertical “shaft” as far down as it will go. Between this adjustment and keeping crew weight aft and on the motor side, the prop has enough depth to perform well in up to, say, a foot of chop. The battery is said to be good for 1hr of use.

Torqeedo Travel 503/1003

503 $1699/ 1003 $1999

Revised for 2015 the Torqueedo Travel is sold as a replacement for 1.5 HP (503) and 3HP (1003) Engines but this is a misleading comparison, as a 3hp petrol motor will get many small, lightly loaded craft of the right hull form “on the plane”, and a Torqeedo 1003 won’t. The propeller supplied is not even designed for that sort of speed (it’s rated 9kmph at 790W, or about 6 knots flat out). Where the Torqeedo excels is pushing surprisingly heavy loads (when the 3hp petrol wouldn’t get you on the plane anyway) at up-to-displacement speeds. 4 or 5 knots in a typical 9ft inflatable dinghy, for example.

The acceleration up to those speeds is also impressive, as electric motors (unlike petrol ones) generate full torque from very low revs – there is never a “lag” after twisting the throttle. So the Torqeedo 1003 has lots of low to mid-range push, but not the whizzy top end of a petrol. Unlike “trolling motors” it will be genuinely useful as a main propulsion unit – just not for anything much over 6 knots (12kmph).

• On-board computer with GPS-based calculation of remaining range
• Removable battery and tiller
• Solar rechargeable – including during the voyage
• Stepless forward/reverse drive
• Completely waterproof (IP 67)
• Integrated battery with 320 Wh Li-Ion
• Max speed 9-10 km/h (depending on type of boat, wind and waves)
• Charging time: 7 hrs
• Remote throttle available

ePropulsion Spirit 1.0
$1930 approx (HQ in Hong Kong, Distributors in Europe and Australia not USA)

3. Petrol (4-stroke) motor

Super Chibi

$500 approx

The Thai-made Super Chibi uses a reliable 1HP Honda Engine (designed for garden tools) mated to a short drive-shaft and neat petrol tank solution.

4. Propane Outboard

Lehr 2.5

Price $1000 appprox
The US-made Lehr runs on propane and the cannisters can add to the overall weight.

5. Weed-wacker conversion

Some people realised you could get a crude but effective “outboard” by putting a propeller on the end of a string trimmer (aka “weed-whip”, “whipper-snipper”, “weed-whacker”, “weed eater”, “strimmer”).

There’s now a few conversion kits available that come as a complete unit or you can DIY with a donor unit

Water Wacker

Small Outboard Motor – 1.2 HP
Cost:   $250 with a 2-Cycle Motor and  $325 with a 4-Cycle Motor
Conversion Kit – for those who want to do-it-yourself:  $100.

The Kit does not include the weedeater, which can be purchased from your local hardware store.  Fabricated from a Straight Shaft – attachment capable (Split Shaft) Weed Eater. Both 2 cycle and 4 cycle units are available.

Performance: Weight 13.2 lbs
Speed: Tested with a two person Kayak, West Marine’s Water Tender 9.4, Walker Bay, and a Sevylor Fish Hunter. They all ran between 4.0 to 5.5 Knots loaded with one 165 lbs person, swinger ice chest with 6 pack, fishing pole, tackle box, and oars

Whipella

Developed in Australia, the kit consists of a cast aluminium propeller housing which attaches to the end of the sting trimmer. A transom mounting bracket is also available. The makers claim the adapters included allow it to switch from grass cutting to outboard in minutes.
Total packaged weight of prop unit is less than 1 kilogram.
Cost of prop unit AU$149. Bracket AU$59.00
Output depends on the motor used.

6. Hand Cranked Outboard.
Originally developed in the 60s, they are now being produced in China and offer a low-tech, quiet propulsion solution – although perhaps oars or a paddle might give you a more efficient method of propulsion for long periods. It might also make be suitable for conversion to power from an electric drill.
Available in UK (£125.00) Germany (EUR 149), Australia (AU$169) under the Freewheeling brand and the USA ($112) as Bris.
The bracket does look a bit flimsy and there’s no hinge to allow it to kick up if you hit anything.

Conclusion
From the options above, you can see that the petrol outboard has the best power to weight ratio and highest top speed – although there are all the issues of pollution, noise and transporting a flammable liquid.

The electric motors may not have the top speed of a petrol or propane motor so they won’t get you planing – but they produce thrust at very low speeds and can output a steady power for reasonably long periods. The electric motors can be disassembled allowing you to stow components below deck but the shaft lengths may make it difficult to get the entire unit below.

• This topic was modified 4 years, 9 months ago by Paul White.
• This topic was modified 4 years, 9 months ago by Paul White.
• This topic was modified 4 years, 9 months ago by Paul White.
• This topic was modified 4 years, 9 months ago by Paul White.
• This topic was modified 4 years, 9 months ago by Paul White.
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• This topic was modified 3 weeks, 2 days ago by WetaForum.
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The 2016 YMCA Multihull Regatta will be conducted on the weekend 22-23 Oct 16.   In previous years the YMCA has granted the Weta fleet their own Division.   If sufficient Weta’s attend the series will constitute the ACT Weta Championship.

NOR and Entry

Could you change the permissions to allow video links – e.g., Youtube.

Video is an obvious way to promote the class.

While a trailer is more practical for most people, there are countries (e.g. Japan and Singapore) where trailers are banned and carrying the boat on the roof is the only option.

However, before you rush out to buy your roof bars, check the maximum roof weight allowed for your vehicle. For many regular cars it’s 75Kg or 165 Lbs and given that the main hull of the Weta weighs 60 Kg and each float 18 Kg, add the weight of the roof rack, there won’t be much left for the trolley.

Examples of vehicle weight limits are Nissan Patrol = 100kg, Ford Everest = 100kg,  VW Amarok = 100kg, Land Rover Discovery 5 = 80kg, and Toyota HiLux = 75kg.

An alternative may be to load the boat onto the load tray of a pickup truck/ute – although this does mean you will have to deal with any regulations regarding having a load protruding beyond the vehicle (for example tying a flag to the load).

It may be possible to get a ladder rack which goes over the load area and allows the boat to sit over the cab.

Action Cameras are great for sharing your Weta activities on YouTube and social media sites but also for coaching and getting tips from others.

See separate post on Camera Mounts for mounting options.

Cameras

While GoPro is the brand leader for Action Cameras they probably aren’t the best choice for a wet boat like a Weta – mainly because of the battery life of 1hr unless you add an external battery pack (GoPro Bacpac) with an additional waterproof housing for the battery. Changing batteries with wet fingers between races isn’t the easiest procedure or safest for the boat or camera.

Also while some cameras are “Splash-proof” without a waterproof case, I’d recommend using an optional waterproof case as capsizing at speed will provide additional pressure compared to gently putting the camera in the water.

There are some cameras that offer extended battery life from the outset:

Drift Stealth 2 (US$69.99 on Amazon)

• Supports 1080p30, 720p60 + Slow Motion
• 3 hours battery life
• Capture 12MP Photos
• Wide 135° Field-of-View Lens
• Camera Water and Shock Resistant
• Wi-Fi for Remote Monitoring and Control
• Time Lapse and Burst Photo Modes
• Lens Rotates up to 300°
• Multi-Colored LED Status Display
• Flat and Curved Adhesive Mounts Included
• Optional 131′ Underwater Housing (Recommended for Weta use)
• Optional Wireless Remote Control (not waterproof!)

Veho Muvi K-Series K2 (US$199 on Amazon)

• Supports 1080p60 / 720p120 Slow Motion
• Capture 16MP Stills at 8 fps
• Wide 140° FOV Lens
• 4hr battery life
• Camera Housing Waterproof to 330′
• Wi-Fi for Remote Monitoring and Control
• Interval Capture for Time-Lapse
• App-Based Control for iOS or Android
• Standard 1/4″20 Tripod Adapter
• Hook-and-Loop Fastener Mount Included
• Adhesive and Right Angle Mounts Included

Replay XD Prime X (US$225.00 on Amazon)

• Captures 1080p60 and 720p at 120 fps
• Takes 16MP Sill Photos
• Wide 140° FOV Lens
• Camera Waterproof to 10′ (3m)
• 3.5 hrs Battery life
• Wi-Fi for Live View and Remote Operation
• 4K Interval Recording for Time-Lapse
• T2.8 Aperture Lens with Anti-Glare Coat
• LowBoy and Tilting Mounts Included
• Optional Microphone Adapter
• Optional Waterproof case to 197′ (65m) (recommended for Weta use)
• Optional Re-Power Battery Packs (adds 3+ or 6+ hours)

TCL SVC200 (aka Coleman CX7WP & Braun SixZero) <$40 on eBay from Hong Kong resellers

170° view angle, 1.5 inch high definition LCD, Full HD video resolution, excellent video quality, optical glass.
Waterproof 30 meters (with the case), with senior chipset, excellent video quality
5.0 mega CMOS sensor, output pixel 5 mega, 12 mega, 16 mega

While the 2hr battery life of the TCL is not as good as those above (but still better than the GoPro), the price, 170° lens angle,waterproof remote and image quality makes it a good budget choice – you can have three for the price of a GoPro!
It also uses an old model Nokia phone battery which are cheap to buy so you can swap them over.

Video review here

Dazzne P2 $131.53 from Bangood China

• 1080P HD video
• f/2.8 large aperture 130°wide angle lens
• 180 degree image flip function
• Shooting video for up to 4 hours
• Waterproof up to 20mt
• Equipped with HDMI and USB interface
• The first 2 inch LCD screen sport video camera
• Small, portable and powerful, 6G+IR 130-degree HD wide-angle lens
• Waterproof: Up to 20 meters depth under water
• Detachable lithium battery: Able to record while charging, easy to replace and prolongs your camera’s service life
• Support high capacity Micro SD card up to 64GB
• HDMI HD output, TV output
• Multiple photo shooting modes: Single shoot, Delaying shoot

Video review here

• This topic was modified 4 years, 5 months ago by Paul White.
• This topic was modified 3 years, 10 months ago by Paul White.
• This topic was modified 3 years, 8 months ago by Paul White.

It may seem like a good idea to save time and pull the trolley onto the trailer using a roller or skid-material at the rear of the trailer – so that the wheels are suspended and the trolley frame is resting directly on the trolley. Or to put chocks under the trolley axle so the wheels are suspended once it’s been loaded on the trailer.

The problem is road impacts may cause the long overhang between the axle and the stern to put excessive force on the aluminium trolley near the welds of the axle – particularly if you load the cockpit full of gear (the only thing that should sit in the boat while being transported is the sails). The frame can be repaired by welding a plate on the outside.

Solutions
You can prevent the issue by adding an additional support bracket the the back of the trailer to support the rear of the trolley.

Alternatively, if you use ramps to load the trolley onto a flat bed trailer and don’t over-inflate the trolley tyres or tie the trolley down so hard that it cannot move, the tyres work in conjunction with the trailer suspension to cushion road impacts and prevent damage to the trolley.

• This topic was modified 3 weeks, 1 day ago by Paul White.

If you find it difficult to lift the amas and get the arms in their sockets at the same time, try putting them on the ground, then line up the ama arms with the socket, then lift the ama sliding the arm into the socket.

Put the boat on some grass or sand. If you can’t find a suitable area where you rig the boat, consider getting a strip of carpet or fake grass long enough to sit the ama on. Alternatively, you can use some pool noodles under the ama to support it.

Lift the Ama from the trolley and lay it on the grass/sand/noodles so that both ama arms line up with the relevant socket in the main hull (you may need to do this by moving the end of the arm so it lines up). Now lift the ama so it remains horizontal (lift the ama just aft of the forward arm) and push the ama arms into the holes. Tighten the tramp ties to make sure they are fully inserted.

NOTE: The lifting balance point for the ama is just behind the front arm. If you try lifting from the mid point between the two arms it will tip forward.

• This topic was modified 3 weeks, 1 day ago by Paul White.
• This topic was modified 3 weeks ago by Paul White.
• This topic was modified 3 weeks ago by Paul White.

One way to have your Weta ready to go is to have your own dock. Note that there’s a strap around the hull and another at the ama arms. While you can lift the boat from the water using the arms, it’s not advised to leave it suspended from them permanently.

If you use a crane to launch your boat, then suspend it with the bow down as this keeps the crane jib clear of the mast and stays.

Another solution is to use a floating dock to put your boat above the water – the version below has a mechanical system to lift the frame and boat clear of the water.

There are also modular floating dock systems with built-in rollers and a winch which could be used to lift your boat clear of the water.

Dock launching

But what if there is no beach or facility to launch your boat apart from a public access dock (see below).

This dock was my launch site for the first 2 years of Weta ownership – the benefit was it was close to home – the downside was working out a way to safely launch and retrieve the boat.

Preparation
You will need to do some measurement and preparation

My 2009 boat (325) was 1.98m wide on the trolley (once I had removed some padding from the end of the mooseheads) – the gantry to access the dock was 2m wide. The 2015 trolley’s with the removable ends are slightly narrower.

You will need two 10m dock lines which you can attach to each float arm upright (instead of tying them on each time, I created a bowline in the end and looped the line it through the bowline as I could do this one-handed).

You will need fenders – the best solution I found was to use hollow pool noodles with bungee cord threaded through them and a clip attached. This allowed me to clip them to the amas secured to the arms. I also acquired some large foam rollers used for exercise and strung them together to make a temporary floating barrier and keep the boat away from growth along the dock edge which could scratch the gelcoat.

You will also need deck cleats to tie up to – both on the corners of the dock and also in the middle to secure the trolley when retrieving the boat (see below).

Having surveyed the site and ensured you can get access, rig and launch your Weta – this is the process I used.

1. Roll your Weta onto the dock.
2. Positioned the boat so you can get around it (you may need to move it during the process)
3. Rig the boat in the normal way taking care not to drop any small components over the edge
4. Decide which direction you are going to launch the boat – you will need to end up with it pointing into the wind although you can secure it at the bow away from the dock (without the jib) if you loop a dock line over the bowsprit or furler to keep it head to wind.
5. Deploy your fenders securing them around the float so that they will not move if they rub against the dock.
6. Tie dock lines to the ama arms and coil them ready on the tramp.
7. Do not hoist the sails unless you are planning to sail away immediately  – they can make the boat hit the dock with considerable force and cause damage to the floats.
8. Tie the trolley axle to a deck cleat to stop the trolley rolling off the dock – either to one cleat in the centre or one either side.
9. Hold one or both of the dock lines and lift the front of the trolley to tip the boat into the water – lifting the bowsprit so it doesn’t catch on the trolley in the process.
10. Stow the trolley out of the way but close enough so you can use it to retrieve the boat on your return.
11. Use the dock lines to tie it firmly alongside the dock to the deck cleats – any slack can allow a gust of wind to cause the bow or stern float to collide with the dock.
12. If you haven’t already changed do so before you hoist the sails.
13. Hoist the mainsail first by sitting next to the mast so you can pull on the halyard and help feed it into the track at the same time.
14. NOTE Do not tighten the Cunningham until you are about to sail or sailing as this will power up the rig and may cause the boat to collide with the dock. Do not hook the mainsheet on until you are ready to go for the same reason.
15. Sit on the foredeck facing the bow with your feet either side to attach the jib to the forestay with the clips – turn around and face the other to hoist the jib. Don’t cleat the jib sheets.
16. Tip: Put the boat hove-to after launching to stow fenders and lines –  don’t worry about stowing them before you leave.
17. Get the boat ready to go including putting the daggerboard and rudder down and clip on the mainsheet to the clew of the mainsail.
18. Sit on the dock with your legs hooked over the nearest float while you untie the dock lines from the deck cleats and coil them up ready to stow in the boat.
19. Push off and get on board making sure you sailing away from the dock and avoiding any moored boats.
20. NOTE Do not start stowing dock lines, making changes to the rig, removing fenders etc until you are well clear of the dock and moored boats. A moment’s inattention with your head in the boat can lead to a costly collision.
21. Put the boat hove-to to enable you to stow ropes and fenders (keep the jib cleated when you tack so it’s backed on the new tack, let out the mainsheet completely and loop the genneker sheet around the tiller extension so that the boat is steering up into the wind).
22. Enjoy your sail!

Retrieval (see video below)
Launching is fairly easy, getting the boat back to the dock and onto the deck is more complicated. If it’s gusty, pick your moment and wait for a lull.

1. When you are returning, put the boat hove-to again and get fenders and dock lines ready. Depower the mainsail by easing the cunningham.
2. Sail back to the dock and if possible approach it from downwind so you have control over your speed by easing the sail.
3. Tip: You are going to need to grab the dock when you get to it, so consider sitting on the wrong side of the boat so you are close by to jump off with the dock lines when you get there.
4. If you find you are approaching too fast or you have stalled with no steering, consider going around again by tacking away rather colliding with the dock. Learn to back the main by grabbing the clew with your hand to slow your approach but don’t overdo it so you stall out and loose steering.
5. Once you get to the dock jump onto it with the dock lines and sit down with your legs over the float as before – then tie the dock lines tight to the deck cleats at either side so the boat cannot twist around and collide with the dock.
6. Drop the sails and roll them up into the boat then put them on the dock out of the way with the daggerboard. Put the rudder up – you can remove it but it’s easy to loose the pin over the side!
7. Once the sails are down and they and any additional weight are out of the boat, get the trolley ready by tying it to the deck cleat at the axle so it can’t go over the side of the dock or roll backwards – you want the rear support to be over the water.
8. Use the dock lines to turn the boat so it is bow on to the trolley – lift the front of the trolley to drop the rear support so that the bowsprit can go over it and grab the bowsprit – use the bowsprit and bow to lift the bow of the boat onto the rear trolley support. Tip the boat up at the bow so you can get more of it onto the trolley support. At the point when the bow is level with the front trolley support, you can put your weight on the front of the trolley to lever the boat out of the water onto the dock.
9. Slide the boat fully onto the trolley and then get under the tramps to untie the trolley from the deck cleat.
10. Derig the boat as normal and stow on the trolley.
11. Don’t forget to take all equipment and temporary fenders with you when you leave the dock.

• This topic was modified 2 weeks, 5 days ago by Paul White.
• This topic was modified 2 weeks, 5 days ago by Paul White.
• This topic was modified 2 weeks, 5 days ago by Paul White.
• This topic was modified 2 weeks, 5 days ago by Paul White.

Leave stuff rigged, don’t tie knots, use a big ass bag.

1. Don’t remove lines. Keep the screecher, jib and trampoline lines rigged all the time. The amas can be removed and set on the dolly without taking them off.
2. Don’t remove the halyards. When you separate the mast sections, stuff the line into the bottom of the upper section and then place it on the dolly. Don’t do this if you are trailering the boat. Make a fabric cover for the ends of the mast (or use a neoprene beer/wine cooler and wrap bungee around it to hold in place). An old sail bag can also be used for this.
3. Don’t remove the main shrouds. Once the mast in down, coil the shrouds and put them on top of the tramp so you can thread the mainsheet through the coils when securing the amas.
4. Get a big windsurfing bag to put everything in. DaKine makes a bag that is the length/width of the Weta cockpit and has a long zipper down its entire length. Everything goes into this bag. And the bag stays in the cockpit when the boat is stored.
5. Don’t de-rig the screecher . Leave the screecher loosely rolled up, on the pole, with the furler line, and stuff it in the cockpit bag. You’ll have to fold the screecher a couple of times to get it in the bag, but leave everything rigged unless you’re super anal about wrinkles in your sail.
6. Don’t tie a knot in the forward tramp lines – just thread a line which is double the length through the tramp edge. If you uncleat and loosen the line there will be enough slack for you to stow the amas arms over the boat without undoing any knots. To tighten, just pull the slack from the stern and coil the excess in your hand like the halyards using half-hitches to keep it furled in the cockpit.
7. Don’t tie knots on the jib or screacher – use a soft shackle. Tying knots is slow and could cause you to break a nail.
8. Use small stainless steel carabiner clips to attach the main and jib halyards.
9. Don’t take the tiller extension off the tiller. Put it in the big cockpit bag or if you’re using the Weta bag, leave it outside the bag as you put the rudder in and poke it through the handle loop as you go.
10. Don’t use straps to tie the boat to the trolley or trailer unless you are going long distance or the mainsheet isn’t rigged. Instead, tie the main hull to the trolley using the rope at the bow and two side ties at the stern. Secure the amas by taking the mainsheet over the tramps and hook it on to the Cunningham or (if long enough) directly to the bar on the mast base plate.  Tighten with the ratchet.
11. Put everything in the big DaKine cockpit bag – rudder, daggerboard, paddle, tools, screecher, main, jib, lifting bridle, etc. Everything that you need to sail goes in the bag. The only thing that doesn’t go in the bag are your wet cloths, PFD, and electronics. And the bag stays on the boat in the cockpit unless you are planning a long journey with the boat on a trailer, in which case remove anything heavy.

Having heard a lot of talk about cooking up a twin tiller system for the Weta, but not having actually seen anyone do it, I took 15 minutes this afternoon and knocked one out. I can come up with a more sophisticated center attachment if this works (speed locks on each side would work) although I suspect this simple arrangement is more than adequate. Before the guys start talking at how small diameter the carbon tubing is – it won’t break. It’s a much higher modulus product than what comes stock on the boat. I’ll probably run the operator end of the tillers out through some loops on the back of the rear aka tramps so they’ll stay in place when I’m on the opposite side of the boat. Probably get a chance to try it this weekend. We’ll see what happens. (I’m sure this isn’t class legal – just something to mess around with.)

• This topic was modified 6 years, 1 month ago by Tom Kirkman.

The Ronstan Series 60 Furler and Swivel supplied by Weta have sealed bearings but water can eventually penetrate the seal and cause it to become harder to unfurl or furl – especially if you leave it for long periods in a damp sail bag.

After feedback from Weta Marine, Ronstan have revised the product to have stainless steel bearings which mean they will spin freely, even if water penetrates the interior, as the seal has been removed. The revised products have an A suffix on the part number (e.g. RS006000A) and are available from Ronstan direct or from dealers with new stock.

• This topic was modified 1 week ago by Paul White.
• This topic was modified 1 week ago by Paul White.
• This topic was modified 6 days, 23 hours ago by Paul White.